Wednesday 31st March 2010
I've had sinusitis since Friday, hence the lack of updates and progress on the car since Thursday. Feeling better now, so I can continue with the build again.
Coordsport.net are able to supply me with the COP cam cover for the Duratec. Link here. It comes with gaskets and bolts so I can simply swap the ST cover straight over for the COP cover when it arrives.
Its the Darlington Croft Easter sprint on Monday, which clearly I'm not entered for, but good luck to everyone else taking part.
And finally, Ford has announced a 6-speed DSG gearbox for the Duratec Fiesta, available from 2010, which could always be an option for the XR2, depending on the weight and power characteristics of the DSG box. I'll bide my time on this one.
Thursday 25th March 2010
CPS has received the Fiesta ST output cup and the tri-lobe joint, together with my sketch of the driveshaft length, and they're starting work on the driveshaft today, for completion in 3 weeks time. I've not managed any more progress on the car, as I'm suffering from a heavy cold, so tonight I may venture outside again to do some more work on the ECU connector. I aim to have sparks and injectors working by the weekend, as they're simply a case of pushing the wires in to the ECU connector body, as everything else is already wired up (ie the +12V supply from the control box).
I've tonight, buzzed through all the wires for the COPs and the injectors, and labelled all the wires ready for insertion in the ECU connectors. I've just 8 shielded cables left to go, and its time for switch on.
I've also removed the crapola Duratec ST badge from the cam cover, which wasn't even stuck on straight (tut tut Mr Ford). Looks much cleaner dont you think?
Tuesday 23rd March 2010
Started on the ECU connector today. I've so far crimped 25 out of the 38 pins, with just the shielded cables to go.
Monday 22nd March 2010
Wired the electric Spal radiator cooling fans in today, and tested them both and they work fine. I used the Tyco waterproof connector that I bought from VWP. I've fitted the radiator, and the front grill back on the car, and I'll start work on the brackets for the front bonnet pins. Last night I shortened the effective length of both the TCAs to reduce the -ve camber and I used the green Loctite on the drivers side knuckle joint/bottom pin to stop it from working lose. I've popped the IB5 output cup from the passenger side of the gearbox, and replaced it with the BC cup I bought off Ebay. The BC cup appears to fit ok, but I'm a bit concerned about the shape of the shoulder on the BC cup, as it appears to rub against the oil seal in the box, and this could lead to failure and loss of oil. Time will tell. I can send the IB5 output cup off to Commercial Propshaft Services, so they can measure the length of the drive shaft I need them to make for me.
Tonight I've fitted the engine bay bulkhead connector using M3 socket head bolts, and I've now fitted the engine bay loom, and plugged everything in. The water temperature sensor on the dashboard now reads the actual water temp of the engine, so it looks like everything is coming together at last.
Thursday 18th March 2010
Fitted the alloy radiator back in, which requires removal of the throttle body trumpets, but thats a very straight forwards job. The rad is now bolted in, and I can look at mounting the front bonnet pins, which will allow me to drill and fit the carbon bonnet in preparation for the trip to Luton with the Fiesta.
I've not managed to shake off this heavy cold yet. Its really hindering my progress outside. If I get a chance over the weekend I'll grab another hour outside if I can.
Wednesday 17th March 2010
Fitted the Titan throttle bodies tonight, according to the instructions in the Cosworth build manual. This allows me to fit the fuel hoses, and also get the car a step closer to the trip to Luton for the hoses to be measured and fitted. One thing the manual doesn't state, is how to keep the o-rings in situ on the backs of the TB's, and how to ensure a proper air-tight seal against the face of the cylinder head. I've used Silicone Compound to cover the face of the TB's and also to stick the o-rings in place.
Thursday 11th March 2010
I've modified the near side front suspension, in the same way that I modified the off side, and the car is now back on its wheels again, with brake disks and calipers fitted. I've way too much -ve camber at the moment, as I've simply bolted the bits on, so I'll get Northampton Motorsport to set the chassis up at the same time that I get the engine mapped.
And I've used High Strength Loctite on the bottom pin, to make sure it cannot move in the knuckle joint, so the pin doesn't just rely on the lock bolt to hold it in place.
Tuesday 9th March 2010
I've modified the front knuckle on the drivers side Kustom Engineering suspension setup, to allow the spherical bearing to sit a lot closer to the bottom of the knuckle. This means that the pin that sits in the bearing can also be shortened, by 15mm in my case, and this modification in turn allows me to fit the brake disk back on without any more clearance issues.
I've also measured the length of the driveshaft that I require, and I'll phone CPS tomorrow to set the wheels in motion. Its 275mm from face to face, and CPS require me to provide them with the ST trilobe joint, and the Fiesta Mk2 outer CV, so they can start the manufacturing process.
Sunday 7th March 2010
Dashboard is now installed, and I shouldn't need to take it out again. The amber ignition warning lamp works, since I realised I'd not fitted the Ignition fuse. The lamp only comes on if the alternator isn't generating power, and the ignition switch is in the On position.
I've also filled the engine with oil today, and fitted the new HF202 filter from Halfords, which was also filled with oil prior to fitting. And I've refitted the VW header tank I used with the Zetec. It should be adequate for the Duratec too.
And finally today, I bolted on the new front suspension, which took quite a while to do. It all fits really well though, with just a couple of minor issues. I've got the front wheels back on so the car is sat on its wheels again and it all looks good.
Tuesday 2nd March 2010
I've plugged the dashboard in tonight, and powered it up for the first time inside the car. The Youtube video below shows me powering it on and running through its functions.
Monday 1st March 2010
I have electrical power in the car! I pushed all the crimped wires in to the Cannon connector for the control box, and turned the power on via the isolator, and so far I've tested the wipers (both On and Intermittent work), the starter motor spins when I press the starter button, and the rear lights are working. So I need to finish off the dashboard and connect that up, and we should see warning lamps, and dials displaying useful information such as battery voltage etc. I've had to MiG the stays for the dashboard, as I'd glued them with Araldite but it all fell to bits when I took if off the car. I've ground the welds down, and painted the stays, and i should be able to fit it all tonight. I needed to find out from Stack the polarity of the gray, purple and black wires that join their stepper motor instruments to the sender units, and today they confirmed that the gray wire is +5V, purple is signal, and the black wire is for ground. Now I know this I can press the last 5 wires in to the connector for the dashboard, and plug it all together. Its 18 months since the car had electrical power, and its a relief that its working!