May 2010

Monday 31st May 2010
Ran the engine for about 5 minutes on Sunday, desperately trying to get it to idle properly. I've just learnt from Dave Walker that the crank sensor is at 90° BTDC on the Duratec-HE, not 76° as dictated by the oscilloscope view in the DTA software (how could it ever by 76° with a 36 tooth timing wheel?). So I'll plug this value in to the map next week, and try again.

I've changed the bonnet pins on the bonnet for the black ones, and replaced the self tapping screws holding them on, with M3 s/s socket head bolts and nyloc nuts. Looks much nicer. I've also removed and refitted the gear selector cables, and made a blanking plate for where they pass through the bulkhead. This is now sprayed Ford sunburst red and is ready for fitting. I'll order a braided clutch hose, dash 4, for the car this week, so I can get the clutch plumbed in. (The fitting from M-Sport is M12)
Thursday 27th May 2010
I've started on the DTA S80 page I said I was going to write, when I'd started to use the device and was learning how to program it. The page can be found under the Technology link on the left, or click here to go direct to the page.

I've relocated the ECU case earth so that the actual stud on the S80 casing is earthed, to see if this cleaned up the signal from the CAM sensor. The ECU recorded over 600 cam sensor errors from Mondays run, which indicates that the ECU doesn't like the signal from the sensor. The S80 expects the signal to come from a tooth wheel, but I've not got one of those on the camshaft, and instead, I'm relying on the standard Ford cam sensor which is located over a timing lobe on the camshaft.

I've loaded a new map in to the ECU, based on the Zetec map from my old DTA E48 ECU, and I've now set the crank sensor position correctly, according to the oscilloscope trace from the DTA software. The setting was 83° BTDC on Monday, which was the default I'd loaded in to the ECU for the first run. The actual setting should be 76° BTDC, and now I've modified this setting, and the ECU has a known working map in it, I'll try for another startup over the weekend. If the cam errors continue, I'll try reversing the cam sensor wiring, or failing that, turn off coil-on-plug and sequential injection altogether, which would be a fail as I specifically wanted to use those two settings for lower emissions at low rpm.

The engine is running with the IW030 injectors at the moment, which are only rated at around 165BHP, so I'll get some IW058's (Beige) high impedance, 14.5 Ohm, "top feed" injectors ordered, for the power runs, as these are rated at 384cc (@3bar fuel pressure) which are good for approx 307BHP, more than enough for the 230BHP I'm aiming for (for the time being).
Monday 24th May 2010
The engine runs. The video below is from the first attempt at starting the engine. A bit lumpy, but she runs nonetheless. Enjoy!

Friday 21st May 2010
The hoses have arrived! As has the DL1-ECU CANBUS adaptor cable. And the 6mm solderless nipple for the throttle cable. If it all goes together, I reckon we could have lift off this weekend.....
Thursday 20th May 2010
Re-fitted the lower rear engine steady bar last night. It was removed when the car had the exhaust manifold made, back in May 2009, and I needed to fit it back securely, in preparation for the engine running for the first time. I've also sleeved the lambda sensor cable where the sensor exits the boss on the manifold, and fitted the M-Sport hydraulic clutch adaptor pipe, which means I can now measure up and plumb in the hydraulic line from the pedal box. Will the 0.7 master cylinder be too large for the slave in the gearbox? Any know?
Wednesday 19th May 2010
Fitted the throttle cable, and I've fitted the DEI heat shroud (Withstands direct heat up to 250°C and reflects radiant heat over 1000°) to the steering rack where it sits on the bulkhead, and I need to add further protection to the rack's gearbox, as its very close to the exhaust manifold. According to SFS, the hoses will be despatched tomorrow (Thursday) so I should have them in time for the weekend. If I can get them all fitted without any problems, and if I have enough time on my hands, I'd like to run the engine this weekend.....
Tuesday 18th May 2010
Fitted the DL1 datalogger, wired it in, and it tests out OK. I've ordered the CANBUS adaptor from Race Technology, so the DL1 can read and record the serial information presented by the ECU, and I can display realtime information, on the Dash3 Lite display, which itself connects and is powered from, the DL1. Thats the theory.

Covered the gear selector cables with the heat protection sleeve from Demon Tweeks, and I've started on the throttle cable. I've also put the car back on axle stands at the front, so I can get underneath and fit the Cool It heat mat to the exhaust tunnel and to the front of the bulkhead in the engine bay, to protect the inside of the car from the heat radiated from the exhaust.

M-Sport are helping me source the right sized o-ring for the R2 hydraulic adaptor. I've ordered a pair of 6mm ID and 2mm wide nitrile o-rings from
Sunday 16th May 2010
Fitted the gearknob after retapping it first to M12x1.25. And I've started chopping up the dipstick tube, to make a shorter/flexible version as there is insufficient clearance at the front of the engine for the standard tube/stick.
Friday 14th May 2010
Fitted the bonnet last night, after making some mounting brackets for the front pins out of aluminium. And drove down to SFS at Luton today so they could measure up the engine bay for hoses. After an hour, we'd a list of bits, including a custom made hose based on the TVR Cerbera top hose, with a take off for the header tank. They're even supplying stainless jubilee clips, and an oil breather pipe, all in black. Delivery should be next Tuesday. So I wont have the car ready for FITP on Sunday, so I'll console myself by watching the Monaco GP on the telly. And here are some shots of the XR2 taken this afternoon.

Wednesday 12th May 2010
The clutch adaptor has arrived from M-Sport, but it looks to me like it needs an O-ring fitted on the end. I'll check with M-Sport in the morning.

The nylon Quaife style gearknob has also arrived, and I need to retap it for the M12 Fiesta gearlever thread.

I've also started fitting the carbon bonnet, and so far I've fitted the two rear catches. The front catches need a support bracket to hold the pins in place, and I'll knock something up tomorrow. I'm booked in at SFS in Luton on Friday morning to get the radiator plumbed in, so I need to get the bonnet on the car for the trip.

I've replaced the extinguisher switch with the one from RS, and it is indeed identical to the original Lifeline switch. They'll still fleece me when I take the cannister in for a refill, so my low cost alternative to their replacement switch isn't going to put them out of business.

Pictures from my phone are here for the M-Sport clutch adaptor, and here for the nylon gearknob. And finally, this is the bonnet being fitted to the car.
Monday 10th May 2010
Fitted the GpN right hand engine mount, which was pretty tricky to do. Fitting the alloy arm was straightforward, but pushing the nylon insulator over the arm resulted in a fair amount of swearing, but after 10 or so minutes, it slid in to place after some lubrication with car shampoo, and persuasion with a length of 4x2. 8-)
Pictures taken from my phone are here and here.

The replacement extinguisher switch from RS is identical to the Lifeline one, so I'll fit that this week. And I've fitted the throttle cable adjuster to the Titan linkage, so I just need to find a bowden cable from a bike or car to connect them to the throttle pedal.
Sunday 9th May 2010
Re-wired the cables feeding the extinguisher switch on the bulkhead, and started tidying the inside of the car. Thanks goodness for cable ties. The Lifeline external extinguisher switch fell to bits when I disturbed it, so I've ordered a replacement from RSWWW.COM, part number 350-282, for less than £6 so I can't complain. (Lifeline wanted >£20 for their replacement)

I've also started changing the RH engine mount for the M-Sport GpN version, and I'll finish that off on Monday evening. When thats done, I'll get the car back on four wheels, and remove the passenger side wheel so I can measure the length of the driveshaft to see if its the same as the new one from CPS. If it is, then I'll re-fit the IB5 output cup, as I'm still not happy with the BC cup as it appears to rub on the gearbox's oil seal. I'll then get CPS to supply the 2nd shaft for the passenger side.
Friday 7th May 2010
Fitted and aligned the crank sensor tonight. I didn't need the dial guage to find TDC. The Duratec has a hole in the crank pulley, which when aligned with a tapped hole in the block, ensures that the crank is at TDC. So you just need to rotate the crank until the two holes align, and use an M6 bolt to secure the crank in position. Then using the sensor alignment tool, position the crank sensor, so that the tool fits over the white tooth on the timing ring, and tighten the two bolts holding the sensor. Once finished, remove the alignment tool and the M6 bolt from the pulley.

I've also changed the electrical isolator pull cable tonight, for the stainless steel version. And whilst I was doing that, the electrical extinguisher switch on the front scuttle, fell to bits, so I need to replace that. Two jobs crossed off, another one added. I've also secured the inner CV boot with cable ties, and over the weekend will have a look at getting the throttle cable fitted.

Wednesday 5th May 2010
The throttle cable adjusters arrived today. Only cost me £2.50 for the pair, from Ebay. I'll fit them to the Titan throttle bodies in due course. The stainless steel pull cable also arrived, and I'll also fit that to the car, prior to the engine running for the first time. There's nothing like a remote cutoff switch for peace of mind.

Apparently, theres an easier way to position the crankshaft sensor than the one I'd embarked on. There's a hole in the crank pulley, which, when aligned with a tapped hole in the block, allows a bolt to be fitted to hold the crank from spinning, and it is at this point that the crank sensor can be fitted over the white tooth on the timing ring. I'm not sure I've enough clearance between the engine and inner wing to even find a bolt hole, but nothing ventured nothing gained.

Here is a link to the website, to the M-Sport Ford Fiesta R2 Parts Manual, which shows the clutch adaptor I've ordered on page 16, BR16020004A -4 Clutch Master Cylinder Adaptor.

Tuesday 4th May 2010
Fitted the driveshaft this evening. And I've started on the re-alignment of the crank position sensor, but I need to borrow my Dad's dial gauge and stand, so I'll finish that task off tomorrow evening. M-Sport have a clutch adaptor fitting that I need to order. Its a push fit -4 adaptor from the new R2 rally car, and it'll fit the IB5 box found in the ST too.
Monday 3rd May 2010
Connected all the fuel lines up in the engine bay today. I've used the Earls Pro-Lite hose, instead of the stainless steel Perform-o-Flex, simply because the Pro-Lite takes seconds to cut (stanley knife blade), and minutes to put a swivel seal connector on the ends. I'll never go back to stainless overbraided again. I hate the stuff, all the puncture wounds, and the hassle getting the ends on.

I did the kit car show on Sunday. Wasn't really impressed. Very quiet. Same old trade stands selling wooden gearlever knobs and chrome trim. Not really much use.

I've ordered a stainless steel pull cable off Ebay, for the battery cutout switch, as my old cable wasn't stainless and it has rusted and siezed. I've also bought a pair of throttle cable adjuster barrels, for the Titans, so I can then use a standard bike brake cable for the throttle cable. Bits should arrive in the next few days.

And I have fuel presure this evening. I've plugged a 10A fuse in to the control box, and power cycled the ECU a few times, which causes the pump to run for 5 or so seconds, and the old girl made the same familiar sounds as the fuel pump pressurised the system, with no leaks. So tempting to push the starter button and see what happens. But I still need to fit a throttle cable, and have a 'helper' on standby with the extinguisher if there are any problems with leaks etc. Just a few more days to wait.