Tuning
ElectricsLast
on May 08 20102010 Update
Starting from July 2009, I'm rewiring the car from scratch, following the installation of the new engine and engine management system, so this page is updated as I go along.
Bascially, the DTA E48 and Zetec section below is from the first time I rewired the car, and is mostly relevant to the DTA E48 and Zetec engine.
Everything in this updated section (below) s for the DTA S80Pro, and Duratec engine.
Although I am installing the Duratec in a Front Wheel Drive Fiesta, much of the examples and explanations below are applicable to all installations of the Duratec engine, Front or Rear wheel drive.
The DTA S80Pro has traction control, as well as launch control, and I need to wire in four hall-effect wheel speed sensors, two for the driven wheels, and two for the undriven wheels. It also allows for sequential injection, and sequential ignition, therefore, it requires a Camshaft sensor wiring in too. Together with the four wheel speed sensors, we're looking at some 11 sensors in the engine bay alone, as well as the power and control signals for the injectors (two banks) and the Coil On Plug packs that I'm using, so theres good reason to completely re-wire the engine bay and cockpit.The S80Pro, as supplied by www.plays-kool.co.uk is DTA's new small format ECU, and has an overwhelming number of features. So long as I can get all the sensors wired in correctly, we should have some fun getting it setup and trying out all the features. One feature is that it has analogue outputs, and these can drive dashboard instruments directly. So the water temperature read from the engine, could be output to a temperature guage, using one of the analogue outputs, programmed accordingly. Hmm...
I'm using a 48-way ITT Cannon Neptune connector on the front bulkhead, to allow all the signals to pass through to the ECU from the engine bay. I'm also using shielded twisted pair cable from Radio Spares (part no. 528-2207), as well as heatshrink in various sizes, blue, clear, and adhesive lined black, to give the looms as professional a look as possible. One advantage of working for a Defence Contractor, is the availability of green Nomex sleeving, if only in short lengths. The Nomex sleeving gives a flame proof finish to the loom, and looks very trick too. Nomex will sleeve the majority of the loom, and the adhesive heatshrink keeps it in place.
I'm retaining several of the original connectors from the Duratec Fiesta ST150 donor loom, for the magnetic 2 wire Crank and Cam sensors. Because I'm using Ford individual Coil On Plug packs, which sit atop the spark plugs, and eliminate the traditional coil pack and HT leads, I've had to source new connectors for the COPs, and these are in fact Hyabusa coil connectors, available from Lake Interconnection Systems (www.lakeics.com) for around £16 including postage and VAT (@15% in 2009).
Coil on Plug polarity - Pin 2, is the +12V feed, and Pin 1 goes to the relevant Coil connection on the ECU. Looking at the COP itself, the pins numbers are moulded in to the COP casing, in very tiny writing, so identifying Pins 1 and 2 is straight forward.
The Fiesta ST150 fuel injectors in the Duratec head are fine for around 160BHP. So you will need to replace the in head injectors with either Bosch or Weber injectors. Note: I did make the mistake of getting a set of Pico injectors for the head, but these do not fit, so I'll be using uprated Bosch injectors again as they flow enough fuel for the BHP figures I'm aiming for.
The air and water temperature sensors both need replacing with items intended for the DTA ECU. The water temp sensor in the alloy water housing on the end of the head, is for the temperature display on the Fiesta dashboard, and not intended for use with the ECU. Therefore it needs to be swapped for an ECU sensor. The standard temperature sensor has a M12x1.5 thread, so you'll need to get an M12x1.5 to 1/8NPT thread adaptor to allow it to be replaced. Burtons sell these adaptors for around £5 each plus Postage and Packing. Simply unscrew the standard sensor, fit the adaptor, then screw the new sensor inside the adaptor. Use thread sealent to ensure that there are no leaks when the engine is up to temperature.
The Titan roller barrels do not use a conventional Throttle Position Sensor with a D-Shaped hole in the middle. Instead, the Titan's require a sensor with an input shaft, and Active Sensors appear one of the only manufacturers. Their part number is RP-5110 for the 130° potentiometer. You must get the RP-5110 sensor, as it has a slot machined in the end of the input shaft. This ensures a good fit in the hole in the Titan throttle spindle.Sensor polarity - the two pin sensors on the engine (Water temp, Air temp, and both of the magnetic Crank and Cam sensors), are wired as follows: Sensor signal return wire to Pin 1, and Sensor Ground wire to Pin 2. Pins 1 and 2 are marked on the connectors (in very small print)
Duratec DIY wiring loom - Parts list - July 2009
This is the list of bits you'll most likely need when making your own engine loom from scratch, for the Duratec engine.
Sensor connectors required
Fuel Injectors : 4 off Mini-timer Amp connectors (see stockist and part no below), boots and 8 x crimps
Air Temperature : 1 off Mini-timer Amp connector, boot and 2 x crimps
Water Temperature: 1 off Mini-timer Amp connector, boot and 2 x crimps
Coil on Plugs : 4 off Hyabusa ignition connectors, 8 x crimps, 8 x rubber collars from www.lakeics.com
Cam Sensor : Use the standard Ford connector from the Donor loom
Crank Sensor : Use the standard Ford connector from the Donor loom
Large (size 24) ITT Cannon Neptune bulkhead connectors
Bulkhead connector: ITT Cannon Neptune 48 way Male and 48 way Female (gold plated or tin plated pins are sold seperately) 273-5382 and 273-5360
Bulkhead backshell: Heat shrink size 24 rear housing 273-5562
IP67 ITT Sureseal water proof connectors
Throttle Position and hall effect wheel speed sensors: ITT Mini Sureseal 3 way IP67 - 341-2973 and Female 341-3005
Mini-timer AMP connectors
Mini-timer Amp connectors, from Webcon
9990166400 plastic connector body £2.32 each
9990175600 rubber boot £4.07 each
9990098900 pin x2 £0.40 each
Engine sensors required
Air temperature sensor, Lucas SNB801, 2.4K Ohm at 20° 1/8NPT thread - Webcon
Water temperature sensor, Bosch M12x1.5 thread - DTA
Throttle position sensor, Active Sensors potentiometer, RP-5110, @~£100 including postage.
Crank Position sensor - Use the Standard Ford Duratec magnetic type
Cam Position sensor - Use the Standard Ford Duratec magnetic type
Ford Duratec Ignition (COP) coil packs
Ford Coil on Plug ignition packs - 4 x Part Number 4M5G-12A366-BC, FINIS 1322402, from www.coordsport.net
Cable required
Shielded twisted pair cable 528-2207
Thinwall, 32/02 16A cable is available from Vehicle Wiring Products. Best to buy it in 30M reels to keep the costs down. I've used about 90 metres of cable in the rewire.
Tools
I use this generic tool from RSWWW.COM
I use this wire stripper, also from RSWWW.COM
Dashboard switches
The small toggle switches I've used on the Hansell Composites carbon fibre dashboard panel are 448-0747
And the push button with the rubber cover (same type as used by Stack on their rev counter tell tale switch) is 103-6280
And the rubber switch cover, sold seperately is 103-6303
Vehicle wiring products sells the same switch and cover, for about 3 times the price of RS ! I know, I bought one from VWP and it came in an RS bag with the part number on the outside. Doh!
Finally the LED indicators are 265-6829, 265-6807 and 265-6835 (all now discontinued)
DTA E48 and Zetec wiring - prior to 2009
The section below was written when I ran the Zetec and DTA E48 ECU. The principles remain the same.
I must stress that these schematics are for a competition car. For competition use, you don't need things like indicators, head lamps etc. The Fiesta is not running with a front bumper, so there wont be any front indicators on the car. Therefore the hazard lamps will only operate on the rear indicators.
I'm running all wires back to the fuse/control box which is located on the passenger floor in the car.
All lights will also have their own feed wire from the fuse/control box. This will allow me to make an electronic circuit which will allow me to flash the lights on and off, either at random, or in sequence, for show purposes.Zetec charging system - prior to 2009
I've used a 50Amp Powermaster 'Denso' Race single wire alternator.
During the concept stage of the engine transplant, I'd spent a long time trying to source an alternator small enough to fit in the gap at the front of engine. The Powermaster alternator has a 93mm diameter body, and weighs only 2.6Kg, and is probably the smallest alternator you can buy. Each Powermaster alternator is rebuilt specifically for racing application, featuring high quality bearings, which allow them to run at very high RPM without disintegrating. The alternator is rated at 50 Amperes, which should be more than enough for the fuel injection system. It has a single wire output, which connects to the main battery cable, and it has just two other connections. One is a switched battery positive supply, which enables the charging circuit within the alternator, and the other is a warning light connection. So if the alternator is not working correctly, I have two amber LED's on the dashboard to warn me.
A unique CNC machined aluminium bracket, manufactured locally from 10mm aluminium (BS EN 485-6082-T6), is used to locate the alternator on the front of the engine. On the Zetec engine, I used the Fiesta RS1800 front engine mounting, because it doubles up as an engine and alternator mounting bracket. Normally, the Zetec from the Mondeo has the alternator on the rear of the engine, but I cant fit one there, because of clearance problems with the front struts. The CNC machined aluminium bracket, which I can supply, requires no modifications to fit. The drive belt I used was bought from Halfords, called an HB887e, which is the perfect length to run round the alternator, crank and water pump pulleys.
The CNC alternator mounting brackets are available to buy, from our Merchandise page.
Picture of the Powermaster alternator
Alternator dimensions (click on picture for larger version)
Alternator electrical connections (click on picture for larger version)
Dashboard instrumentation - prior to 2009
I'm using a Stack ST-200 rev counter. The needle is driven by a tiny stepper motor, controlled by a microprocessor. It reacts instantaneously to changes in engine RPM, and it also features a tell tale button which moves the needle to the highest RPM recorded since the last reset. The LED's are ultra bright 10mm units from RSWWW.COM. They are amber to warn if the alternator has stopped charging, red to indicate low oil pressure, and blue to show when to change gear. I've installed a set of 7 segment digital gauges for battery voltage, oil pressure, and water temperature. These were supplied by www.summitracing.com in the United States. Excellent value, they come with transducers, but the only problem is that they're difficult to read in bright light. The LED's could do with being brighter.
Lighting - prior to 2009
The Fiesta has smoked rear clusters, with stop and tail lights wired to the ignition. No reverse lights or indicators are wired in. These are not required. I have stop and tail lights for track day use only, so other drivers can see what I'm doing ahead.
The headlamps are rather unconventional too. I dont need working headlamps in Sports Libre, so I've replaced both glass units with laminated colour prints of the headlamps. The photographs are simply printed on a colour laser, and are laminated using a standard laminating machine. They're held in place using an aluminium stay, and silicon rubber on the back. This saves a lot of weight, and looks to most people like the car is still running the glass headlamps. Its amazing seeing the looks on some peoples faces, when they work out that the lamp's aren't real.
If you wish to do the same, then open the picture of the headlamp in Word, resize it to 7" across, and print it to a colour laser printer. Cut it out with some scissors, then laminate it. Finally stick it in place of the original lamp unit.
Vehicle wiring Schematics - prior to 2009
I've created these simple drawings using Microsoft PowerPoint 2000.
- Starting/charging and ignition system.
- Warning lamps
- Lighting
- Washers, Windscreen wipers, ECU, fuel pump and windscreen de mister to follow.
Power connections
Signal connections
Black box circuitry
Wiring the car the first time - prior to 2009
The pictures below show the wiring looms that are in place for the lights. I've used Polyamide sleeving to protect the wires. Its a soft, flexible braiding that you feed the wires through, and is flameproof. Its used in the defence industry, and is most often seen in tanks, helicopters, ships etc. I've protected all the lighting looms using the braiding, and I've drilled and pop-riveted cable tie mounts to the chassis, and tie-wrapped the cables in place. I'm mounting a bulkhead connector on the front bulkhead, and the wiring loom inside the engine bay will have a connector on the end which will screw in to the bulkhead connector. This will allow me to easily remove the engine wiring loom for modifications, and I can carry a spare loom incase of damage to the wiring.
March 2001, the engine bay wiring loom, work in progress.
April 2001, the engine bay wiring loom, now completed and fitted to the car. And the switch box.
