Tuning
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on July 30 2010Thursday 29th July 2010
The rubber boots arrived from M-Sport (thanks Graeme) and tonight I assembled the near side drive shaft, and refitted the hub, having packed the inboard CV with good quality grease first. I then realised that I had a problem with the way that I'd fitted the Kustom suspension on the near side. Where the inboard heim (rod end) for the track control arm locates in the chassis leg, Karl had supplied a very neat brace assembly, that fits inside the original chassis leg box section, and runs forward to the tie bar mount. I'd not fitted the brace bar fully up inside the chassis, and there was a whitness mark on the alloy heim, which shows that when the car sits on the suspension, the heim had been resting on the uppermost section of the brace box. Still with me? My fault for not fitting it correctly. However, when I tried to push the box section further up inside the chassis leg, the brace that runs underneath the gearbox, hit the box, and the gear selector mechanism. Simples. I removed the brace and cut off the tube that runs forward. I've done exactly the same on the drivers side as my Duratec sump also hit the brace bar. So no great loss considering I'd not ran brace bars previously.
So with the Kustom box section now fully inside the chassis leg, I refitted the track control heim, and then re-assembled the front suspension. I then realised I hadn't yet torqued up the tie bar brackets, so I had to undo the fasteners for the radiator, so I could move it sideways to allow access to the top of the bolts that hold the tie bar brackets in place. Everything was then quickly torqued up, but I'd run out of time to give the brakes one last bleed, so I'll do that tomorrow evening, prior to trying out the clutch for the first time at the weekend.
Wednesday 28th July 2010
Went to see if the boot kit had come in from Ford, but they told me that it would have to be back ordered with a 5-10 day lead time. So I rang Graeme Foster at M-Sport, and he found two inner CV boots, which should be with me tomorrow. Thumbs up to M-Sport again.
The clutch is now bled, and appears to operate when I press the clutch pedal. Not sure yet if its fully disengaging the clutch, so I'll only know over the weekend when I get to try out the brakes etc for the first time (on the driveway, a bit too ambitious to take it to a track just yet).
I've cleaned all four wheel arches and re-applied Stone Chip spray, to give them a bit of a sprucing up. No corrosion, but 7 years of competition was beginning to take its toll on the paint work.
Saturday 24th July 2010
Went to the Ford dealer in Leicester on Saturday morning, and ordered a CV boot kit for the Fiesta ST. Collection Wednesday.
Friday 23rd July 2010
Bled the front brakes, with just the clutch left to do. Re-routed the clutch hose inside the cockpit, away from the exhaust system and any heat sources. I've also made a blanking plate for one of the large original holes in the bulkhead. And I finished off the lower rear engine steady bar. When the car came back from Tony Law Exhaust, they had to relocate the steady bar to the outside of both brackets, so I've now made spacer tubes to prevent the brackets from squashing together when the bolts through the brackets are torqued up.
Wednesday 21st July 2010
Rear brakes are now full of brake fluid, and I bled them using the vacuum pump I've used before. I couldn't get any fluid out of the calipers at first, then realised that I'd pressed the pistons fully inside the calipers, and when I pressurised them, to push the pistons out, low and behold, I could get fluid out of them again. I'll bleed the fronts on Thursday night, and start work on the clutch and the additional rear gearbox mount to help arrest any engine movement. I want the car to be driveable at Ford Fair, though not necessarily tuned.
Friday 16th July 2010
I went to the Ford dealership in Leicester yesterday to see if they could supply me with a retaining clip for the clutch slave hose connector. After a few minutes rooting around the workshop they found me a spare one, and I fitted it to the Fiesta last night. This means that the hydraulic clutch may now be bled, and I can then test it out to see if its working properly with the Rally Design pedal box.
Last night I also finished off both of the HiSpec rear calipers. The four brake pad retaining pins supplied with the calipers, were too long for my calipers (off a different model from the looks of things) so I had to drill new 1.5mm holes in them for the R clips that prevent them from falling out. And I also had to shorten all four pins as they were about 1" longer than was necessary.
Thursday 15th July 2010
The incar video from the Tiff Needell driving experience last week, had an inaudible sound track recorded from inside the car, the AV engineer who looks after the recordings, has written to apologise, and Tiff has offered to take me and the wife around the Thruxton circuit again, for free. I cant complain about that. I need to book myself some 1-2-1 tuition at the track, for the BSC round next year, so I'll make sure that Tiff is there the same day, so we can get another go in the M3.
I'm aiming to have the car running properly (ie drivable) for Ford Fair on August 8th, so I've some hours to put in over the coming weeks. There's not much to do, but the biggest hurdle will be plumbing the clutch in and making sure that the master cylinder is producing enough (and not too much) pressure to operate the clutch in the ST gearbox. Speaking of gearboxes, still no news from Quaife regarding the sequential, so I'll plough the money in to rebuilding the engine instead, at a later date.
Sunday 11th July 2010
Fitted the rear brake pads in the hispec calipers. I had to grind two of the outer pads, to form a radius, so the pads clear the brake disk. These pads are from a Mitsubishi EVO, and Altiss have machined the thickness including the pad material, down to 10.5mm.
Had a great time with Tiff Needell at the Thruxton circuit on Thursday. I was driven around the track in a 2010 BMW M3, mostly sideways, and the car control that Tiff has, has to be experienced to be believed. A true legend. Thruxton is used in the British Sprint Championship, so at least I have a feel now for how quick the circuit is when I compete there next year.
And my neighbour from hell is pleading not guilty to the assault in February 2010 and 11 years of harassment, even though his solicitor was present when all of the CCTV footage was shown to him again last week, he still denies any wrong doing, and its going to go to the CPS for consideration next, which could take another 2-3 weeks. We'll then find out what charges he's facing, and when its going to be heard in court.
Wednesday 7th July 2010
Racing Green Endurance, a team made up of students from Imperial College in London, start their journey along the Pan-American highway tomorrow, in a battery powered Radical SR0, designed and built by the students. Read about their exploits here
Monday 5th July 2010
The aircon in the Legacy is now working properly. The re-gas fixed the problem. Just need to keep an eye out for the luminous dye that was injected, to see if we can spot where the gas is leaking from.
I dropped the Ferodo pads off at Altiss, to have them machined down to 10.5mm thick. And I've made the blanking plate for where the clutch hose passes through the bulkhead. Just needs painting and fixing in place.
Thursday 1st July 2010
I've fitted the near side axle-bar, but its uncomfortably close to the end of the output cup on the gearbox, so much so that there is only a couple of mm gap, so although I've tried winding the track control arm out, to widen the front track, and I've rotated the top mount to remove some of the -ve camber, I dont really think I have enough clearance to avoid problems with mechanical interference. So I'll leave it for a while, and maybe get a shorter shaft made for the nearside, say 15mm shorter, which places the tri-lobe back in the centre of the output cup.
I've also found that whilst fitting the Mitsubish EVO Ferodo DS11 brake pads on the HiSpec rear calipers, the pads have far too much material on them to allow the brake disk to slide between them. So I'll drop all four pads off at Altiss on Friday morning, to have 5mm machined from each, so I've enough clearance for the disks.
I'm due to have a trip around Thruxton race track next week, with Tiff Needell in a BMW M3. Its not till next Thursday, so plenty of time to start getting excited. I cant wait.
And the aircon on my Legacy Diesel is being regassed on Friday evening, as it blows naff all cold air out of the vents, so there must be a leak. I'll claim for the work under the warranty, but the soonest Subaru could see me was two weeks from when I reported the problem, so I rang their 'specialist' direct, and he's coming round to my home to do the work a week sooner than he could do it through the dealership. I only hope it cures the problem, as driving in the summer heat, without aircon, aint pleasant.
Friday 25th June 2010
Removed the near side axle-bar (it was made by RecoProp to GpA specification, and I'll sell it together with the longer offside bar in due course) and started building up the new driveshaft that arrived on Wednesday (from Commercial Propshaft Services). Once I've found the boot kit I bought a year ago! I'll finish it off and offer it up to the car.
Monday 21st June 2010
I've started working away from home in June so I've precious time to work on the car. So I've set about getting the car off the ground, with all four wheels removed so I can sort out the brakes and suspension and a few other jobs to boot.
I've bought a clutch hose from Earls that runs from the 3/8 master cylinder to the 7/16 M-Sport adaptor on the slave. Its 1.3metres long, and saves me having to run cupronickel pipe work, which is very time consuming to bend to the right profile etc.
I've also removed the BC output cup from the passenger side of the gearbox, and compared it to the original Fiesta ST output cup, you can see that they're radically different, so my dream of simply running with a BC cup and retaining the original Recoprop custom shaft is now in ruins, and I've refitted the ST cup, and bought the second of the two custom axle-bars from CPS. Although the distance between the cup and the outer CV is 10mm shorter on the passenger side (265mm), I'm hoping I have enough play to allow me to fit the 275mm axle-bar. I can always push the engine/box over by 5mm is necessary.
With the car in the air, I've adjusted the track of the front suspension, to push both wheels out about an inch wider than previously, to take advantage of the fully adjustable race suspension from Karl in the USA.
So lots still going on. I want to be out on track soon, but the snag list is quite large, and I've got to make the best use of my free time at the weekends to concentrate on fixing the snags, and not being distracted by anything else.
Sunday 6th June 2010
The Classic Ford show at Santa Pod this year was very impressive, with a much larger turn out than usual. I've never seen so many Mk1 Fiestas before all gathered together in one place. I was on the SH*TBOX Racing stand, and although the stand was located beyond the strip finishing line, we had a very large number of people wander by. The cars on the Classic Ford stand were simply stunning. The rain stayed away until 4pm, and then we had a torrential downpour for a good quarter of an hour, which most people took as a signal to pack up and leave. By which point the car parks were all emptying on to the same road out of the complex. This made most people in the paddock area queue for around 2 hours before they eventually left the venue.
It was great to meet Matt Downer and Graham Millar again, and Andy Pipe and many others from the forums that I stay in regular contact with.
Everyone was very complimentary of my XR2, and I was able to run it for a good five minutes, just to show that the new map I loaded on Saturday afternoon (90° crank sensor position & batch mode) has ironed out the rough idle. The oil pressure is very high though. The Stack gauge shows 90 PSI, and this has lead to a small leak on the remote filter housing, which I obviously need to fix. I'm sure the pressure will drop once the engine is up to temperature.
To relieve the boredom of waiting to load the car on the trailer, I took a video from inside the XR2, of the intermittent wipers clearing away the rain from the windscreen (just shows how bored we all became waiting for the rain and the traffic to clear)
Friday 4th June 2010
I've been finishing off the fixtures and fittings on the car, and I'll be at Classic Ford at Santa Pod on Sunday, for their annual extravaganza. I wont be driving on the strip though, as she's not yet ready (or tuned).
Monday 31st May 2010
Ran the engine for about 5 minutes on Sunday, desperately trying to get it to idle properly. I've just learnt from Dave Walker that the crank sensor is at 90° BTDC on the Duratec-HE, not 76° as dictated by the oscilloscope view in the DTA software (how could it ever by 76° with a 36 tooth timing wheel?). So I'll plug this value in to the map next week, and try again.
I've changed the bonnet pins on the bonnet for the black ones, and replaced the self tapping screws holding them on, with M3 s/s socket head bolts and nyloc nuts. Looks much nicer. I've also removed and refitted the gear selector cables, and made a blanking plate for where they pass through the bulkhead. This is now sprayed Ford sunburst red and is ready for fitting. I'll order a braided clutch hose, dash 4, for the car this week, so I can get the clutch plumbed in. (The fitting from M-Sport is M12)
Thursday 27th May 2010
I've started on the DTA S80 page I said I was going to write, when I'd started to use the device and was learning how to program it. The page can be found under the Technology link on the left, or click here to go direct to the page.
I've relocated the ECU case earth so that the actual stud on the S80 casing is earthed, to see if this cleaned up the signal from the CAM sensor. The ECU recorded over 600 cam sensor errors from Mondays run, which indicates that the ECU doesn't like the signal from the sensor. The S80 expects the signal to come from a tooth wheel, but I've not got one of those on the camshaft, and instead, I'm relying on the standard Ford cam sensor which is located over a timing lobe on the camshaft.
I've loaded a new map in to the ECU, based on the Zetec map from my old DTA E48 ECU, and I've now set the crank sensor position correctly, according to the oscilloscope trace from the DTA software. The setting was 83° BTDC on Monday, which was the default I'd loaded in to the ECU for the first run. The actual setting should be 76° BTDC, and now I've modified this setting, and the ECU has a known working map in it, I'll try for another startup over the weekend. If the cam errors continue, I'll try reversing the cam sensor wiring, or failing that, turn off coil-on-plug and sequential injection altogether, which would be a fail as I specifically wanted to use those two settings for lower emissions at low rpm.
The engine is running with the IW030 injectors at the moment, which are only rated at around 165BHP, so I'll get some IW058's (Beige) high impedance, 14.5 Ohm, "top feed" injectors ordered, for the power runs, as these are rated at 384cc (@3bar fuel pressure) which are good for approx 307BHP, more than enough for the 230BHP I'm aiming for (for the time being).
Monday 24th May 2010
The engine runs. The video below is from the first attempt at starting the engine. A bit lumpy, but she runs nonetheless. Enjoy!
Friday 21st May 2010
The hoses have arrived! As has the DL1-ECU CANBUS adaptor cable. And the 6mm solderless nipple for the throttle cable. If it all goes together, I reckon we could have lift off this weekend.....
Thursday 20th May 2010
Re-fitted the lower rear engine steady bar last night. It was removed when the car had the exhaust manifold made, back in May 2009, and I needed to fit it back securely, in preparation for the engine running for the first time. I've also sleeved the lambda sensor cable where the sensor exits the boss on the manifold, and fitted the M-Sport hydraulic clutch adaptor pipe, which means I can now measure up and plumb in the hydraulic line from the pedal box. Will the 0.7 master cylinder be too large for the slave in the gearbox? Any know?
Wednesday 19th May 2010
Fitted the throttle cable, and I've fitted the DEI heat shroud (Withstands direct heat up to 250°C and reflects radiant heat over 1000°) to the steering rack where it sits on the bulkhead, and I need to add further protection to the rack's gearbox, as its very close to the exhaust manifold. According to SFS, the hoses will be despatched tomorrow (Thursday) so I should have them in time for the weekend. If I can get them all fitted without any problems, and if I have enough time on my hands, I'd like to run the engine this weekend.....
Tuesday 18th May 2010
Fitted the DL1 datalogger, wired it in, and it tests out OK. I've ordered the CANBUS adaptor from Race Technology, so the DL1 can read and record the serial information presented by the ECU, and I can display realtime information, on the Dash3 Lite display, which itself connects and is powered from, the DL1. Thats the theory.
Covered the gear selector cables with the heat protection sleeve from Demon Tweeks, and I've started on the throttle cable. I've also put the car back on axle stands at the front, so I can get underneath and fit the Cool It heat mat to the exhaust tunnel and to the front of the bulkhead in the engine bay, to protect the inside of the car from the heat radiated from the exhaust.
M-Sport are helping me source the right sized o-ring for the R2 hydraulic adaptor. I've ordered a pair of 6mm ID and 2mm wide nitrile o-rings from www.bearingstation.co.uk
Sunday 16th May 2010
Fitted the gearknob after retapping it first to M12x1.25. And I've started chopping up the dipstick tube, to make a shorter/flexible version as there is insufficient clearance at the front of the engine for the standard tube/stick.
Friday 14th May 2010
Fitted the bonnet last night, after making some mounting brackets for the front pins out of aluminium. And drove down to SFS at Luton today so they could measure up the engine bay for hoses. After an hour, we'd a list of bits, including a custom made hose based on the TVR Cerbera top hose, with a take off for the header tank. They're even supplying stainless jubilee clips, and an oil breather pipe, all in black. Delivery should be next Tuesday. So I wont have the car ready for FITP on Sunday, so I'll console myself by watching the Monaco GP on the telly. And here are some shots of the XR2 taken this afternoon.
Wednesday 12th May 2010
The clutch adaptor has arrived from M-Sport, but it looks to me like it needs an O-ring fitted on the end. I'll check with M-Sport in the morning.
The nylon Quaife style gearknob has also arrived, and I need to retap it for the M12 Fiesta gearlever thread.
I've also started fitting the carbon bonnet, and so far I've fitted the two rear catches. The front catches need a support bracket to hold the pins in place, and I'll knock something up tomorrow. I'm booked in at SFS in Luton on Friday morning to get the radiator plumbed in, so I need to get the bonnet on the car for the trip.
I've replaced the extinguisher switch with the one from RS, and it is indeed identical to the original Lifeline switch. They'll still fleece me when I take the cannister in for a refill, so my low cost alternative to their replacement switch isn't going to put them out of business.
Pictures from my phone are here for the M-Sport clutch adaptor, and here for the nylon gearknob. And finally, this is the bonnet being fitted to the car.
Monday 10th May 2010
Fitted the GpN right hand engine mount, which was pretty tricky to do. Fitting the alloy arm was straightforward, but pushing the nylon insulator over the arm resulted in a fair amount of swearing, but after 10 or so minutes, it slid in to place after some lubrication with car shampoo, and persuasion with a length of 4x2. 8-)
Pictures taken from my phone are here and here.
The replacement extinguisher switch from RS is identical to the Lifeline one, so I'll fit that this week. And I've fitted the throttle cable adjuster to the Titan linkage, so I just need to find a bowden cable from a bike or car to connect them to the throttle pedal.
Sunday 9th May 2010
Re-wired the cables feeding the extinguisher switch on the bulkhead, and started tidying the inside of the car. Thanks goodness for cable ties. The Lifeline external extinguisher switch fell to bits when I disturbed it, so I've ordered a replacement from RSWWW.COM, part number 350-282, for less than £6 so I can't complain. (Lifeline wanted >£20 for their replacement)
I've also started changing the RH engine mount for the M-Sport GpN version, and I'll finish that off on Monday evening. When thats done, I'll get the car back on four wheels, and remove the passenger side wheel so I can measure the length of the driveshaft to see if its the same as the new one from CPS. If it is, then I'll re-fit the IB5 output cup, as I'm still not happy with the BC cup as it appears to rub on the gearbox's oil seal. I'll then get CPS to supply the 2nd shaft for the passenger side.
Friday 7th May 2010
Fitted and aligned the crank sensor tonight. I didn't need the dial guage to find TDC. The Duratec has a hole in the crank pulley, which when aligned with a tapped hole in the block, ensures that the crank is at TDC. So you just need to rotate the crank until the two holes align, and use an M6 bolt to secure the crank in position. Then using the sensor alignment tool, position the crank sensor, so that the tool fits over the white tooth on the timing ring, and tighten the two bolts holding the sensor. Once finished, remove the alignment tool and the M6 bolt from the pulley.
I've also changed the electrical isolator pull cable tonight, for the stainless steel version. And whilst I was doing that, the electrical extinguisher switch on the front scuttle, fell to bits, so I need to replace that. Two jobs crossed off, another one added. I've also secured the inner CV boot with cable ties, and over the weekend will have a look at getting the throttle cable fitted.
Wednesday 5th May 2010
The throttle cable adjusters arrived today. Only cost me £2.50 for the pair, from Ebay. I'll fit them to the Titan throttle bodies in due course. The stainless steel pull cable also arrived, and I'll also fit that to the car, prior to the engine running for the first time. There's nothing like a remote cutoff switch for peace of mind.
Apparently, theres an easier way to position the crankshaft sensor than the one I'd embarked on. There's a hole in the crank pulley, which, when aligned with a tapped hole in the block, allows a bolt to be fitted to hold the crank from spinning, and it is at this point that the crank sensor can be fitted over the white tooth on the timing ring. I'm not sure I've enough clearance between the engine and inner wing to even find a bolt hole, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
Here is a link to the FiestaR2.com website, to the M-Sport Ford Fiesta R2 Parts Manual, which shows the clutch adaptor I've ordered on page 16, BR16020004A -4 Clutch Master Cylinder Adaptor. http://fiestar2.com/index.php/component/remository/func-startdown/70
Tuesday 4th May 2010
Fitted the driveshaft this evening. And I've started on the re-alignment of the crank position sensor, but I need to borrow my Dad's dial gauge and stand, so I'll finish that task off tomorrow evening. M-Sport have a clutch adaptor fitting that I need to order. Its a push fit -4 adaptor from the new R2 rally car, and it'll fit the IB5 box found in the ST too.
Monday 3rd May 2010
Connected all the fuel lines up in the engine bay today. I've used the Earls Pro-Lite hose, instead of the stainless steel Perform-o-Flex, simply because the Pro-Lite takes seconds to cut (stanley knife blade), and minutes to put a swivel seal connector on the ends. I'll never go back to stainless overbraided again. I hate the stuff, all the puncture wounds, and the hassle getting the ends on.
I did the kit car show on Sunday. Wasn't really impressed. Very quiet. Same old trade stands selling wooden gearlever knobs and chrome trim. Not really much use.
I've ordered a stainless steel pull cable off Ebay, for the battery cutout switch, as my old cable wasn't stainless and it has rusted and siezed. I've also bought a pair of throttle cable adjuster barrels, for the Titans, so I can then use a standard bike brake cable for the throttle cable. Bits should arrive in the next few days.
And I have fuel presure this evening. I've plugged a 10A fuse in to the control box, and power cycled the ECU a few times, which causes the pump to run for 5 or so seconds, and the old girl made the same familiar sounds as the fuel pump pressurised the system, with no leaks. So tempting to push the starter button and see what happens. But I still need to fit a throttle cable, and have a 'helper' on standby with the extinguisher if there are any problems with leaks etc. Just a few more days to wait.
