Duratec InstallationLast on May 22 2014
This page is dedicated to the Ford Duratec DHE420 engine and my attempt to install it in the Mk1 Ford Fiesta.
In August 2008 I managed to locate a very low mileage engine (~ 250miles), from a Fiesta ST, and over the next couple of years, installed and overcame all the hurdles required to get it running. During the Duratec conversion, I stayed with the Fiesta ST IB5+ gearbox.
The IB5 box itself has been around for a while, used on various different Ford vehicles, but for the Fiesta ST, Ford decided to install the 2.0 Duratec, and because the Duratec has a different bellhousing design to the other Ford engines (Crossflow/Pinto/Zetec/CVH) Ford had to develop a front wheel drive box to fit the Duratec in the Fiesta ST. So they came up with the IB5+ (Plus). This is basically an IB5 box, but with a different bellhousing, and the starter motor on the front.
The conversion from my previous BC box, to IB5+ wasn't without its own challenges. I had to convert from cable clutch to hydraulic, which involved changing the Rally Design pedal box to a hydraulic one. I also had to invest in new axle-bars. The trilobe joints (or tripod) are different to the ones I used on the Zetec/BC box, so I needed two new axle-bars manufactured to allow me to couple the front wheels to the gearbox.
And previously the Zetec engine and BC box, were supported using the XR2 Mk1 engine cradle. But for the Duratec conversion, I opted to ditch the cradle, and adopt the M-Sport Sporting Trophy engine mounts, that suspend the engine and gearbox on competition mounts. I also had to brace the engine with two adjustable tie-bars, that both fix the rear of the engine to the bulkhead, to prevent any fore/aft movement when accelerating/braking.
In February 2011 I treated the Fiesta to a Quaife Sequential dog engagement gearbox (QBE38Z), which is based on the IB5/IB5+, and this should bolt directly to my Duratec, giving me super fast full throttle gearshifts.
My XR2's initial 'Duratec' powered debut was at the Classic Ford at Santa Pod in June 2010, and she also went to Ford Fair at Silverstone in August 2010, and Trax also at Silverstone on September 2010. She was then featured in Fast Ford magazine in December 2010.
The Duratec/MZR engine was designed as a replacement for the Zetec engine and was developed in joint collaboration with Ford and Mazda. The lightweight engine features a cast aluminium reinforced block and main bearing girdle that help reduce vibration and improve overall rigidity. The Duratec is an excellent, affordable building block for high performance use.
Looking on the WWW, there are a fair number of companies involved in tuning and producing parts for the Duratec engine. SBD, Raceline and Dunnell all sell kits and complete engines, and the costs appear to be quite high. But you are paying for quality at the end of the day, so the state of the build is once again down to the size of your wallet. Ford of course also has a large amount of information and parts for the Fiesta Sporting Trophy teams. Performance and upgrade parts have been honed over several years competition, on the tracks and in the forests, and it looks as though the support for the engine and drivetrain is improving all the time.
Pictures of the conversion(Below) The engine being dismantled of all the parts that aren't really necessary for competition use. I've removed the Air Con compressor, power steering pump etc. I've removed 31 Kilogrammes of parts in total.
August 2008(Below) The first time I offered up the 2.0 Duratec and IB5+ gearbox in to the Mk1 Fiesta.
This is what the standard Ford ST150 engine mount looks like (FINIS 1343434)
(Below) The M-Sport GpN engine mounting arm, available for the Fiesta Sporting Trophy competitors. This is CNC machined from a block of aluminium, and finished with a tough black anodised coating. M-Sport also supply (at extra cost) the nylon insulator, which replaces the Ford rubber insulator from the standard ST150 mount. To replace the standard insulator, you simply bend out a couple of retaining tags and press it out, and push the replacement item back in its place. Two M6 bolts are then used to hold the replacement insulator in place.
The GpN mounting arm itself bolts more securely to the engine cover, as it uses 3x M8 bolts and 2x M12 bolts (supplied with the GpN arm), whereas the standard arm just uses two M12 bolts.
(Below) The M-Sport Group N gearbox mounting bracket.
October 2008The M-Sport gearbox mount attached to the gearbox, and my own chassis mounted bracket which I fabricated from 3mm steel plate.
December 2008I upgraded the Jenvey throttle bodies to a set of Titan roller barrel throttle bodies, with 100mm tapered trumpets. These mount direct to the Duratec head, and as there is no throttle spindle or butterfly inside the body, when on full throttle there is nothing to restrict the air flow in to the head.
February 2009These pictures show the Ford Duratec alternator drive belt tensioner, and the Titan fuel rail. The alternator / waterpump belt tensioner, is available from Coordsport, part number 3M5Q-6A228-AD, FINIS number 1315781. This is the tensioner for the waterpump / alternator and airconditioning pump belt on the 2004 model year Focus / CMax with a 1.8 Duratec HE engine.
February 2009Radtec custom made aluminium Radiator.
The radiator looks small, but it has a larger surface area (26cm x 66cm) than the RS1800i radiator (30cm x 50cm) that the XR2 was running previously with the Zetec, and so long as I can get air to flow through it, it should keep the Duratec nice and cool. The twin fans are going to help when she's sitting in traffic.
March 2009I've fitted the radiator to the body shell, using two aluminium plates, and M6 stainless socket head screws. I've also incorporated M5 fasteners in to the brackets to allow the front radiator grill to bolt securely to the shell. The radiator is fixed centrally to avoid the starter motor solenoid hitting the twin Spal cooling fans. So I need to plumb it all in now, and find a way of routing the water from the thermostat housing pipe back over to the swirl pot/header tank over on the nearside.
April 2009I've made some good progress this month. Engine steady bars are now fixed in place, preventing the engine from moving fore/aft under acceleration/braking. The new DTA S80Pro ECU has also been acquired, and needs wiring in. The offside driveshaft was also removed to allow me to measure the length of the new one. I'm retaining the intermediate driveshaft on the rear of the block, because the BC gearbox flange wont fit in the side of the IB5 box, due to interference from the block. I've specified a 4.38:1 final drive in the new gearbox, because the red line of 8000rpm will give me similar gear change points to the 3.857:1 final drive I ran with the Zetec with a red line of 7200rpm. Top speed will be 130MPH+
May 2009This month the car went up to Tony Law in Leeds, for a complete exhaust manifold and system, and I started the re-wiring of the engine management system, and I've chopped out the front slam panel.
June 2009This month the slam panel was completed and fitted using stainless steel quick release catches. I solved the clearance issues with the oil filter housing were solved, by fitting a Eurospeed (Australia) oil filter housing plate. I also bought a set of Coil On Plug gizmos, from Coordsport. These allow me to remove the ignition coil and plug leads, as the COPS sit on top of the spark plugs. I also mounted the DTA S80Pro in the car, using M3x20 fasteners and a pair of aluminium brackets I made from the angled aluminium bought in May. Oh and I bought a set of PICO injectors, only to realise that the Duratec doesn't use PICOs. So they've been sent back for a refund.
July 2009This month I sorted out the Throttle Position sensor, and started on the engine bay loom.
August 2009This month I finished off the Alternator brackets, and made more progress with the engine bay wiring loom. And I identified and fitted a 4PK1260 drive belt on the engine. And I drilled and tapped the water outlet housing, to take two 1/8 NPT water temperature sensors.
September 2009This month I finished the engine bay loom, with 45 of the 48 pins used in the ITT Canon connector.
October 2009This month I plumbed in the oil filter housing, and modified the sandwich plate to take the oil temp, oil pressure, and low oil pressure switch sender units.
November 2009This month I've been busy wiring the car, and the Zetecinside oil adaptor for the Duratec block, finally turned up from BR & D Engineering in W.Sussex, UK. The adapter plate was drawn in SolidWorks by Karl Hacken in the USA, according to my fag packed design, specifically for my Fiesta. If you want to get a Zetecinside oil adapter plate for yourself, I suggest you contact BR & D Engineering directly, as I couldn't afford to have a batch of them made. They feature 1/2BSP threads and I've used 1/2BSP to -10 adapters, from Earls.co.uk. They also use BS209 "Viton" O-Rings, which are available from Brammer (UK), and the O-Rings seal the adapter plate against the block.
December 2009This month I fitted the Zetecinside Duratec oil adapter plate, with fittings, and made up the hoses to connect the block to the remote oil filter housing. I've also finished the control box which contains all the electronics that controls the relays for the ECU, and houses all the fuses for the various circuits within the car. I've used 1.8mm carbon sheet on the top of the control and isolator boxes, for that professional touch.
January 2010Built the dashboard up this month and did some more work to the wiring.
February 2010Finished off the dashboard wiring.
March 2010Received the drive shaft from Commercial Propshaft Services, and did some more work to the dashboard mounts. Fitted the Titans to the engine following the Cosworth Caterham build manual procedures. And there's a video of the dashboard being put through its paces.
April 2010Fitted the gear selector cables. And videos of the injectors and sparks working for the first time. And I changed the cam cover for one that house fixings for the COPs. Changed the throttle position sensor for the 5110-130 sprung shaft type for the Titans (The one shown in the picture is the RP5130-130 from Active Sensors. The 5130 does not have a sprung shaft and is therefore not suitable.)
May 2010This month the car was trailered to SFS to have a fitting session for the water hoses, and the new driveshaft arrived, plus I aligned the crank sensor pulley.
June 2010This month I realised that I couldn't use the BC trilobe housing, as it simply didn't seat correctly in the gearbox, and I sourced a hose for the hydraulic clutch.
July 2010This month I modifed the rear brake pad back plates to allow them to fit against the brake disks.
August 2010This month the car was tuned on the rolling road, and it produced 200bhp.
February 2011I splashed out on a Quaife Sequential Gearbox in February, I must be mad, as it required modified front suspension, and a bit more wiring!
March 2011I swapped the gearboxes over, and fitted the engine with the Quaife sequential box for the first time.
April 2011This month I bought a Titan superlight flywheel, and an AP Racing 215mm Clutch and Cover. The Titan flywheel weighs in at just 3.7KG. I also fabricated a new lower rear engine steady bar, that connects the gearbox to the chassis using a modified Fiesta Mk6 gearbox steady bracket.
May 2011I bought a set of ARP Duratec rod bolts from Burton Power, and an AP Racing paddle clutch, CP5354-15, which Burton confirmed would work with the CP5905-500 cover.
To take the sump off, 17 bolts need removing, then the sump needs prising gently off the block. Using a screw driver at the flywheel (cly 4) end of the engine, there's a gap between the sump and block, and gently pushing the tapered end of the screwdriver between the two is enough to prise the sump off. Out the factory, black RTV sealant is used to seal the join between the sump and block, and this would need cleaning off and re-applying before reassembly. Changing the rod bolts is simple enough to do. The new bolts need to have a special ARP assembly grease applied to the threads before re-assembly, and then each bolt is torqued to 45ft-lbs. Once all the bolts had been changed, it took me a further hour to carefully clean off the old black RTV from the block and sump mating surfaces. I didn't want any oil leaks and it was worth spending the time to get the surfaces clean.
The sump is baffled on the Fiesta ST, and it looks like it'll be more than adequate for race use. And the oil pickup pipe is made from plastic, and appears to have a filter built in, to prevent any debris reaching the oil pump. Next I washed the sump out with petrol to remove any RTV that had dropped in, and cleaned both surfaces using solvent cleaner. I then used Blue Hylomar on the sump for the replacement sealant, and carefully joined the sump back to the Duratec block, and re-fitted the 17 sump bolts. You dont even have to take off the timing chain cover to remove the sump, but this means that extra care is required when fitting the sump back, so as not to disturb the hylomar (or RTV) sealant.
Next job was to stand the engine back up again, and fit the new clutch. I'm a bit concerned about the depth of the AP5905-500 cover. When I fitted the gearbox back on, it compresses the clutch release bearing, meaning that the bearing is permanently pressing against the clutch cover. I'll run some checks before I re-connect everything back to the engine, to make sure that the clutch depresses the cover adequately to allow the clutch plate to disengage. I'll have to live with the bearing pressing against the cover, I just hope it doesn't generate any heat and damage the plastic clutch slave housing. Anyway, I mated the box back with the engine, and by 21:30 had the engine and box both back in the Fiesta, sitting on the engine mounts, and then called it a day after 5 hours of hard graft.
Removing the standard Fiesta ST flywheel and clutch/cover
The section inside the gearbox bellhousing that need modification to clear the Titan flywheel
Laying the engine on its side and removing the sump to replace the conrod bolts. The Fiesta ST sump looks properly baffled, and the sump pickup is plastic and has a gauze inside to prevent debris reaching the oil pump.
Using blue Hylomar to re-seal the sump
Bolting the sump back on - dont worry I did fit the missing bolt!
Fitting the clutch
Fitting the box on the engine
The new gearbox steady bar
Fitting the engine back in to the Fiesta
June 2011Northampton Motorsport set the engine and suspension up. Troy worked his magic on the engine map. No overheating issues any more, no dramas, not even a drop of oil on the floor. All the care and attention has paid off.
Yet again we coaxed 199.8BHP out of the engine, and the red line is now set to 7500rpm.
Suspension also aligned as best as we could.
L -1°3 and -1°25 R Camber
L 2°48 and 2°56 R Caster
L -°01 and -°03 R Toe
So thats as close as we could get to 3° caster and 1.5° of negative camber
Here are the youtube videos I recorded, of various mapping and full power runs.
We had to stick some cold fuel in around midday as power was dropping off, and the fuel lines were warm to the touch. No other issues. Another successful day at NHM.
The floor mounted gearbox torque limiter bracket, was simply not up to the job, as I discovered when I spotted that it had almost torn itself free from the floor of the car (damaging the floor in the process). I designed and built a 4mm box section, that fits below the steering rack, on to which a 45mm turnbuckle connects the rear of the gearbox to the bracket, thus limiting the movement of the engine and gearbox under braking and acceleration.
After developing serious clutch judder at Loton park and Santa pod in September/October 2012, I decided to replace the paddle clutch for a conventional uprated AP clutch, supplied by Burton Power. The clutch itself looked new when it was removed, but there were witness marks on the flywheel where you could see that it was catching and this I believe is what contributed to the judder. I've sold the clutch plate to another Fiesta owner. I'm now running the AP uprated race clutch CP5351.
I've also sold the original Fiesta ST IB5+ gearbox that came with the Duratec engine, which raised a healthy £450 towards the cost of the latest modifications for 2013.
Youtube videos (A269FEJ)Injector testing April 2010
Ignition testing April 2010
Dashboard testing March 2010
Links to Ford Duratec & Fiesta ST150 sitesThe M-Sport web site
Ford Power Products web site
Wikipedia page on the Ford Duratec engine
Ford Duratec Forums
3D Duratec Screen Saver
Links to technical bulletins and documents
Fitting the uprated engine and gearbox mounts
Sporting Trophy Options List (Part numbers for uprated items from M-Sport)
Ford DHE engine range leaflet