Workshop CameraLast on December 31 2015
The workshop camera is off the air since January 2010 because of the charges my ISP was expecting me to pay for going over my bandwidth limit.
Engine removalI've been asked quite a few times, whats the best way to remove the engine/gearbox?
Here's the steps that I take to remove the engine and gearbox from Beccy. Its the quickest and safest way that I've found so far.
Basically, I place a wooden trolley beneath the engine, support the engine via the crane, undo all the retaining bolts and lower the engine/gearbox on to the trolley.
Then the crane is hooked up to the chassis, and I lift the bodyshell up, high enough to push the trolley/engine/gearbox out from under neath the car.
Note: Never work underneath a car unless it is supported securely, ie with axle stands. Dont risk your life!
SafetyBeing a member of several car clubs, I get to hear some real horror stories from people that have had accidents in the garage. Indeed, in 1992, one club member's friend died, because the car they were working on fell on them, crushing them to death. I also know of a former Hot Rod and Thundersaloon champion that lost his sight in one eye, from a workshop accident, which ended his racing career.
I take safety very seriously. Below is a guide to what you should wear when working on your car.
When using the angle grinder, electric drill, bandsaw, disk cutter or any other electrical device that cuts or grinds, you must protect your eyes, your ears and your body. Safety goggles are a must. I wear glasses, and I can comfortably work with the goggles over the top of them. In fact, with plastic glasses, I have a second layer of protection for my eyes. I always wear leather gauntlets when I'm grinding or cutting. I've had plenty of slips, and the gauntlets have saved my hands time after time. Always wear ear defenders when working with electric power tools. Your hearing is very easily permanently damaged if you are subjected to extreme noise levels. ie grinding or drilling in an enclosed space
When working underneath the car, NEVER rely on the trolley jack to support the weight of the car. ALWAYS support the car with axle stands. Dont prop the car up on house bricks or wooden blocks. The death I mentioned above, was caused when the guy tried removing a gearbox from his Mk2 Escort. The front of the car was sitting on house bricks, and as he rocked the gearbox back and forward to free it, the car fell off the bricks, landed on him, and crushed him to death. Despite his best friend being in attendance, the injuries were fatal. I always always place the wheel that I've removed, underneath the car, to act as a backup to the axle stands. If the car is going to drop, its going to be arrested by the wheel, which may be enough to save me.
When welding, I wear a baseball cap to prevent my head from being burned from the sparks. I wear leather gauntlets to protect my arms and hands, and I always wear a full face shield. Note: Never look at the metal that you've just welded. The glow that you see may be pretty, but its emmitting infra-red light, which can cause retina burn and permanent eyesight damage.
I always use an RCD (Residual Current Detector) some times known as an Earth Leakage Circuit breaker , to protect me from electric shock. The RCD isolates the mains electricity if it detects a current flowing from Live to Earth, thus preventing electric shock. The extension lead I run the power tools from is connected via the RCD, so if I drop anything on the cable, or touch a live wire, I'm protected.
Whenever I spray or grind, I wear a dust mask. This filters out most of the dust particles in the air, and stops you from breathing them in. You must make sure that you've got adequate ventilation when spraying or welding. The Argoshield gas used with a MIG welder (or CO2 on the hobby gear) causes asphyxiation as it displaces air in the workshop, so always weld with a door open.
It's common sense. Take your time, wear the correct protective clothing, and you should have many trouble free hours in the garage.